It’s difficult to imagine cooking without onion. They are so necessary to cuisines around the world that the basic prep step in cooking many dishes calls for mirepoix, trinity, soffrito or something similar. These are simply the names of a mix of vegetables, including onion, the preparation of which is considered essential. The French have mirepoix, onion, celery and carrot sautéed in butter. The Italians soffrito, the same with the addition of garlic and sautéed in olive oil. The Cajun and Creole cuisines of Louisiana use the Trinity – onion, bell pepper and celery. But they all begin with onion.
Onions have been used by humans for millennia, although the dates of cultivation aren’t clear. Use dates to the Bronze Age – 5000 BC, and it’s certain that the builders of the Egyptian pyramids were fed onion. It was worshipped in Egypt as well, with the concentric growth pattern symbolizing eternal life. Ever since it’s been an integral foundation stone for the cuisines of most of the world’s cultures, spanning the globe fully. They have been valued as a food source not only for immediate or fresh use, but also because they are easily stored, and handle transport well. The Middle Ages saw Europeans using them as a type of currency, the Greeks used them for their athletes. Romans rubbed them on the body to firm up muscles. They arrived in the New World with Columbus, and throughout cultures and centuries they have been ingested or applied in various ways as a medicine.
Onion can be eaten in any number of ways, fresh, frozen, canned, preserved, smoked, and pickled among others. The flavor, depending on the particular cultivar, can range from sharp and pungent to sweet and truly mild. The onion is full of natural sugars, which caramelize beautifully, deepening and mellowing the flavors, and becoming complex with cooking. They even change in different ways depending on the type of cooking method – the stir fry with a hot fire in an iron wok results in a different profile then the long slow browning in butter over low heat.
Onions are not often eaten alone, but they are used extensively as an accompaniment, to bolster and highlight the flavors of other foods, or as a garnish. Mechanical manipulation before use runs the gamut as well, from a rough chop to the finest dice. The word onion is commonly used to refer to the standard garden or bulb onion, and these are all members of the genus Allium . Green onions, or scallions, are the same as yellow, white, Spanish or Vidalias, simply harvested earlier and eaten or used whole. When mature the tops are discarded – usually because they are bitter when older – and the bulb alone is utilized. Colors can vary significantly, from a pure white, to cream, to the reds and purples.
Onions have been promoted for centuries for the various beneficial effects on health, however, recent research has shown that there may be some truly advantageous elements to the onion. Non fat, and low in protein, they are loaded with Vitamin C and folate. They also contain significant amounts of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Studies have not yet born out regarding claims that the consumption on onion is tied to a reduced risk of diabetes or osteoporosis, but there have been some hints that they assist with a lower risk of head and neck cancers. In general, the sharper the taste, the higher the content of the pertinent nutrients – phenols and flavenoids – thought to have the most medicinal properties.
Check out the USDA’s Nutrition Facts page. Onions can be a good source of calcium, manganese, phosphorus, Vitamin B6 and potassium.
There are myriad folk methods for making sure that the preparation of onion doesn’t cause tears – cutting them under running water, having them well chilled or partially frozen, holding a toothpick in your mouth, leaving the root attached while cutting – but the cause of eye irritation is simple. The lacrimal glands are irritated by the release of chemicals present when the outer layer of onion is pierced and combined with others in the interior. Water will prevent some of this – washing away the offending chemicals and preventing the compounds from reaching the eyes and nose. However, it’s long been common knowledge in culinary circles that the most effective preventative of tears when cutting onions is a sharp knife. Speed and effective knife skills are your best friends. Keep your tools in top order and your knife work honed and you’ll be fine.
Onions are easy to find – even the smallest, most poorly stocked grocery has onions. At the least a yellow and white will be available. Larger stores will have more variety, with shallots and scallions available as well. In the spring look for Vidalia or Walla-Walla sweets, which don’t fare as well cooked as more pungent varieties, but are unbelievable eaten raw or barely sautéed. Farmer’s Markets often have more rare cultivars, including heirlooms which are making a comeback for more complex flavors. Try them all! Experiment with different varieties – none of them will be anything less than delicious, and you’ll discover the wonderful differences that can be found.
When purchasing onions, make sure the neck – the stem end – is tightly closed. You want a firm onion without soft spots – these indicate spoilage. You also want to avoid onions with dark places – this can indicate a black mold that will quickly spread and make the entire onion – or batch – nasty and inedible. Don’t purchase onions that have sprouted, and make sure that they are very dry. Moisture is an enemy to your onions.
Storage is also simple. But in small amounts – yellow and white onions are often sold in five pound bags, or buy just the two or three you’ll use within a few days. The most important elements to storage of onions is air circulation and temperature. Make sure you have a cool, but not cold, location – room temperature is fine for just a few days. Keep them dry, and make sure there is adequate air circulation. Don’t keep them in plastic bags – they’ll quickly go mushy and begin to rot. A wire basket is ideal. Don’t let them have direct sunlight and you’ll be golden!
If you wish to store a partial onion – you have a couple of choices. In all cases the onion should be tightly wrapped and placed in the refrigerator, and used within just a few days. Many cooks will chopped an entire onion, using only what they need for an immediate use, and store the rest for another day. You can also chop only part of the onion, leaving the root end attached, and chopping the rest as you need it, preserving a bit more of the moisture in the onion, and therefore more of it’s flavor.
Monday, June 7, 2010
Pork
Ask me about my favorite protein, and the answer hands down will be pork. Flavorful and adaptable, inexpensive and widely available, this lovely meat can handle just about any cooking technique or method, and can both impart and absorb flavors readily. Pan fried, sautéed, braised, smoked, barbecued, roasted, grilled – the list can go on as long as there is a cooking method. Pork can handle whatever you want to do with it, and will reward you with loads of flavor.
Domesticated as early as 5000 BC from wild boar, perhaps in China, Sus domesticus (the common domesticated pig) readily adapted to human needs. Omnivorous in nature, people have long kept pigs for the simple reason that they were easy to feed, grew rapidly, and extremely useful. “Everything but the squeal” can be used, from the meat and bones to the hides and hooves. The high return for less input than other animals made them ubiquitous nearly worldwide.
Currently 38% of the world’s meat consumption is pork. Patterns of consumption vary widely from country to country. Two of the world’s major religions, Judaism and Islam both restrict pork entirely. The South Pacific, China and the United States embrace it. Wild boar was first domesticated probably in China, spreading throughout the Pacific from there. In the Americas, pigs were brought over when Coumbus made his initial voyage, spreading rapidly both in the wild and via human settlement.
The word pork entered English from the Middle French porc , and in turn from the Latin porcus . Fresh cuts of course include all types of bone-in and boneless chops, roasts, ribs, and shoulders. Once smoked, cured, brined or processed, the resulting meats are included in the branch of culinary arts known as charcuterie. Preference and use of particular cuts of fresh pork vary significantly from location to location. Products of charcuterie also vary significantly, from pancetta in Italy, smoked bacon in the United States, and preserved pork in China. It is most definitely the opinion of this author that in charcuterie lies the pinnacle of the culinary arts. Bring it on.
Fresh pork however, is a simple, fast and lean protein. It takes well to the same brining processes that can be used to ensure flavorful poultry, and can be prepared with just about any cooking method imaginable. The National Pork Council lists quite a few cut, along with pictures of each on the web site: www.theotherwhitemeat.com. It should be noted that often there are regional differences in the names of particular cuts – however, this is a great general guideline. For quicker cooking, on stove top, as a stir fry or on the grill, try the chops, blade steaks or cutlets. For roasting try tenderloin, or a shoulder to braise or slow smoke. For something special, have an herb rubbed crown roast. But by no means do you have to stick with those – pork is truly adaptable. Use country style ribs for beautiful Korean barbeque – and of course spareribs on the grill are unbelievable.
The cooking method which you will use will depend on the fat content of your cut. Be careful with the leaner cuts - in recent years prk has become lower in fat due to creeding and feeding changes. The result is a healthier cut, lower in saturated fat and cholesterol, but it can also mean tougher, chewier meats. With chops and tenderloin, try brining the pork in a salt/sugar brine, and using a hot skillet or grill for a quick sear.
Bone in cuts will retain more flavor when cooked - which is typical of most meats. The bone will also help retain moisture in the final product. There is also a little more choice in cooking methods. Bone in cuts can be roasted - try a very hot oven to start, then reduce the heat until the desired internal temperature is reached. This will allow a beautiful crust to form, helping to hold in juices, while keeping the interior moist and flavorful. Or try low and slow on the grill - ribs are a perfect choice for several hours at low temperture. Or go with the smoker - the ultimate acheivement is the pink smoke ring on the interior of smoked pork when the temperature is controlled correctly.
Another payoff? Pork has some rather lovely nutritional numbers. It’s treated in culinary circles as a white meat along with light poultry, although nutritionally speaking it’s closer to red meat. The main difference is in the presence of myoglobin: pork has more than chicken and less than beef.
Pork is high in thiamin, niacin, vitamin B6 and riboflavin. It contains some iron, magnesium, zinc and vitamin B12. Many cuts are very low in fat as well.
Purchase and storage is relatively simple - the number one requirement is to use your head. Of course most chefs will tell you to find a butcher as opposed to a supermarket - knowing your butcher admittedly is key to finding the best and freshest meats possible. However, that's not always a possibility. In that case you need to look at the meat department of your grocery store. Find out how often new stock is received. Check packaging dates. Look at the meat itself - it should be bright and fresh to the eye. Boneless cuts will often be creamier in appearance than bone-in - but all of them should appear moist. More unusual cuts - such as the crown roast - may have to be ordered in advance, especially from a meat department at a grocery vs. a butcher. In any case get to know whoever it is that arranges for the meat to be brought in - butcher, store manager, meat manager etc. This will help assure that you have the most information, and information means better meals!
Keep fresh pork in the fridge, and use it within a couple of days of purchase. No later than the 'sell-by' date on the labels - but as ideally as close to purchase as possible. Pork takes well to freezing as well - make sure it is tightly wrapped and well labeled, and use it within a couple of months. Always defrost in the refrigerator.
That's it! Take this info and start playing. Find your own favorite cuts and techniques for preparation. You'll be delighted at the results!
Domesticated as early as 5000 BC from wild boar, perhaps in China, Sus domesticus (the common domesticated pig) readily adapted to human needs. Omnivorous in nature, people have long kept pigs for the simple reason that they were easy to feed, grew rapidly, and extremely useful. “Everything but the squeal” can be used, from the meat and bones to the hides and hooves. The high return for less input than other animals made them ubiquitous nearly worldwide.
Currently 38% of the world’s meat consumption is pork. Patterns of consumption vary widely from country to country. Two of the world’s major religions, Judaism and Islam both restrict pork entirely. The South Pacific, China and the United States embrace it. Wild boar was first domesticated probably in China, spreading throughout the Pacific from there. In the Americas, pigs were brought over when Coumbus made his initial voyage, spreading rapidly both in the wild and via human settlement.
The word pork entered English from the Middle French porc , and in turn from the Latin porcus . Fresh cuts of course include all types of bone-in and boneless chops, roasts, ribs, and shoulders. Once smoked, cured, brined or processed, the resulting meats are included in the branch of culinary arts known as charcuterie. Preference and use of particular cuts of fresh pork vary significantly from location to location. Products of charcuterie also vary significantly, from pancetta in Italy, smoked bacon in the United States, and preserved pork in China. It is most definitely the opinion of this author that in charcuterie lies the pinnacle of the culinary arts. Bring it on.
Fresh pork however, is a simple, fast and lean protein. It takes well to the same brining processes that can be used to ensure flavorful poultry, and can be prepared with just about any cooking method imaginable. The National Pork Council lists quite a few cut, along with pictures of each on the web site: www.theotherwhitemeat.com. It should be noted that often there are regional differences in the names of particular cuts – however, this is a great general guideline. For quicker cooking, on stove top, as a stir fry or on the grill, try the chops, blade steaks or cutlets. For roasting try tenderloin, or a shoulder to braise or slow smoke. For something special, have an herb rubbed crown roast. But by no means do you have to stick with those – pork is truly adaptable. Use country style ribs for beautiful Korean barbeque – and of course spareribs on the grill are unbelievable.
The cooking method which you will use will depend on the fat content of your cut. Be careful with the leaner cuts - in recent years prk has become lower in fat due to creeding and feeding changes. The result is a healthier cut, lower in saturated fat and cholesterol, but it can also mean tougher, chewier meats. With chops and tenderloin, try brining the pork in a salt/sugar brine, and using a hot skillet or grill for a quick sear.
Bone in cuts will retain more flavor when cooked - which is typical of most meats. The bone will also help retain moisture in the final product. There is also a little more choice in cooking methods. Bone in cuts can be roasted - try a very hot oven to start, then reduce the heat until the desired internal temperature is reached. This will allow a beautiful crust to form, helping to hold in juices, while keeping the interior moist and flavorful. Or try low and slow on the grill - ribs are a perfect choice for several hours at low temperture. Or go with the smoker - the ultimate acheivement is the pink smoke ring on the interior of smoked pork when the temperature is controlled correctly.
Another payoff? Pork has some rather lovely nutritional numbers. It’s treated in culinary circles as a white meat along with light poultry, although nutritionally speaking it’s closer to red meat. The main difference is in the presence of myoglobin: pork has more than chicken and less than beef.
Pork is high in thiamin, niacin, vitamin B6 and riboflavin. It contains some iron, magnesium, zinc and vitamin B12. Many cuts are very low in fat as well.
Purchase and storage is relatively simple - the number one requirement is to use your head. Of course most chefs will tell you to find a butcher as opposed to a supermarket - knowing your butcher admittedly is key to finding the best and freshest meats possible. However, that's not always a possibility. In that case you need to look at the meat department of your grocery store. Find out how often new stock is received. Check packaging dates. Look at the meat itself - it should be bright and fresh to the eye. Boneless cuts will often be creamier in appearance than bone-in - but all of them should appear moist. More unusual cuts - such as the crown roast - may have to be ordered in advance, especially from a meat department at a grocery vs. a butcher. In any case get to know whoever it is that arranges for the meat to be brought in - butcher, store manager, meat manager etc. This will help assure that you have the most information, and information means better meals!
Keep fresh pork in the fridge, and use it within a couple of days of purchase. No later than the 'sell-by' date on the labels - but as ideally as close to purchase as possible. Pork takes well to freezing as well - make sure it is tightly wrapped and well labeled, and use it within a couple of months. Always defrost in the refrigerator.
That's it! Take this info and start playing. Find your own favorite cuts and techniques for preparation. You'll be delighted at the results!
Buttermilk
I doubt most people anymore grew up drinking buttermilk. Or further, crumbling their cornbread into a glass of it to dip out with a spoon. When I’ve mentioned drinking buttermilk plain to my children, I’ve gotten the inevitable ‘gross!’. While few people drink it straight anymore, buttermilk has been getting more of the recognition it deserves in the culinary world in recent years, moving out of the Southern, Middle Eastern or Indian kitchen and into the wider culinary world. And it’s about time! Buttermilk is a good cook’s secret weapon – and it can serve in several different capacities in the kitchen. It’s fabulous in baked goods, as a meat tenderizer, and an element in emulsions and dressings. It’s inexpensive, low in fat and packed with some great nutritional elements. It’s rich in calcium, phosphorus, potassium, riboflavin and vitamin B12.
Traditionally, buttermilk was the tart liquid left over when the solids were removed in the butter making process. As part of the process, whole milk was allowed to sit to allow the milk and cream to separate. Lactic-acid producing bacteria naturally present would begin a process of fermentation. Because most of the butterfat remained in the butter portion, buttermilk itself is rather low in fat, yet it retains valuable nutrients. The soured liquid remaining behind – with a lower pH - contained many of these bacteria, as well as additional beneficial microorganisms (which is why buttermilk was often used as a digestive aid). Because much of the lactose is converted by the beneficial bacteria in the production process, many of those who are lactose intolerant found they could easily digest dishes made with buttermilk.
Modern production of buttermilk is a bit different, although using the exact principles that have been used for centuries. Cow’s milk is inoculated with the Streptococcus lactis, and the resulting slightly fermented, sour liquid is known as cultured buttermilk. A slightly different variety is called Bulgarian buttermilk, is slightly more sour and uses Lactobacillus bulgaricus. The two varieties can be used interchangeably in the kitchen – it’s simply up to the cook and personal preference and availability.
All varieties of buttermilk contain casein, milk protein; traditional buttermilk has clabbered or thickened less than cultured buttermilk. This results in the difference in thickness you can observe, and which most cooks are accustomed to. The thick creamy mouth feel of ranch or green goddess dressing is due to cultured buttermilk. Both dishes were developed in the latter 20th century using widely available cultured buttermilk. Chemically both cultured and traditional types will behave the same in the kitchen – both work well as tenderizers for example. They also have much the same nutritional profile.
Almost any grocery store will carry buttermilk. It is far more prevalent, and greater variety can be found in either ethnic stores (Indian stores are great), or in mainstream grocery stores in the South. My personal preference is for whole-milk buttermilk, but if all you can find is low or non-fat varieties, then it’s no problem. If you’re lucky enough to find Bulgarian, give it a try. Experiment with each type until you discover your own personal preferences. It will all ‘behave’ the same way when you cook with it – the differences will be in texture and thickness.
So what do you do with it? The first and most obvious uses are in dressings. America’s favorite is ranch – try mixing a batch from scratch. Or green goddess – my personal favorite from the 50’s which I wish would make a whole scale comeback. It’s amazing in baked goods – pancakes, biscuits, breads and crusts – the lactic acid in buttermilk reacts with leaveners such as baking powder to create the ‘lift’ that makes the inside of a good biscuit so heavenly. The acid reacts to create little bubbles which lift the dough and create a truly tender crumb. Try it as a tenderizer in marinades – lamb, pork and chicken especially take to the gorgeous bit of tang and more tender texture that a buttermilk bath can impart. Southern Fried Chicken especially relies on a soak in buttermilk.
Nutritional Information
Now of course the best place for nutritional information is the label on each brand - general information from sites such as the USDA will rely on generalities. However, remember that these are guides - if you don't have a mass spectrometer in your kitchen you aren't going to get everything exactly right. You will however, get really close, and more importantly, be able to work this information into your overal dietary picture.
Low fat buttermilk is relatively low in calories - 98 per 8 ounce serving. In addition it contains just over 8 grams of protein per serving, as well as 284 mg of calcium. That's quite a punch - 16% of the daily value of protein, and 28% of the DV for calcium. Pretty good for something that's delicious as well, huh?
The same 8 ounces will give 22% of the DV of riboflavin, 11% of potassium, and 9% of B12. The downside - you're also going to get a rather sharp sodium punch - 11% of the daily value, or 257 mg, so be careful there. In addition, much of the nutritive value in buttermilk comes from carbohydrates, so the glycemic scale should be watched carefully. The USDA states the glycemic load of a cup of buttermilk at 8.
Overall though, this is an amazing substance, and once you begin to experiement with it, you'll see how powerful a tool it can be. Don't be afraid of buttermilk - it wants to be your friend. Let it - and allow it to make you a culinary rock star.
For more information and photographs, check out the link above.
Traditionally, buttermilk was the tart liquid left over when the solids were removed in the butter making process. As part of the process, whole milk was allowed to sit to allow the milk and cream to separate. Lactic-acid producing bacteria naturally present would begin a process of fermentation. Because most of the butterfat remained in the butter portion, buttermilk itself is rather low in fat, yet it retains valuable nutrients. The soured liquid remaining behind – with a lower pH - contained many of these bacteria, as well as additional beneficial microorganisms (which is why buttermilk was often used as a digestive aid). Because much of the lactose is converted by the beneficial bacteria in the production process, many of those who are lactose intolerant found they could easily digest dishes made with buttermilk.
Modern production of buttermilk is a bit different, although using the exact principles that have been used for centuries. Cow’s milk is inoculated with the Streptococcus lactis, and the resulting slightly fermented, sour liquid is known as cultured buttermilk. A slightly different variety is called Bulgarian buttermilk, is slightly more sour and uses Lactobacillus bulgaricus. The two varieties can be used interchangeably in the kitchen – it’s simply up to the cook and personal preference and availability.
All varieties of buttermilk contain casein, milk protein; traditional buttermilk has clabbered or thickened less than cultured buttermilk. This results in the difference in thickness you can observe, and which most cooks are accustomed to. The thick creamy mouth feel of ranch or green goddess dressing is due to cultured buttermilk. Both dishes were developed in the latter 20th century using widely available cultured buttermilk. Chemically both cultured and traditional types will behave the same in the kitchen – both work well as tenderizers for example. They also have much the same nutritional profile.
Almost any grocery store will carry buttermilk. It is far more prevalent, and greater variety can be found in either ethnic stores (Indian stores are great), or in mainstream grocery stores in the South. My personal preference is for whole-milk buttermilk, but if all you can find is low or non-fat varieties, then it’s no problem. If you’re lucky enough to find Bulgarian, give it a try. Experiment with each type until you discover your own personal preferences. It will all ‘behave’ the same way when you cook with it – the differences will be in texture and thickness.
So what do you do with it? The first and most obvious uses are in dressings. America’s favorite is ranch – try mixing a batch from scratch. Or green goddess – my personal favorite from the 50’s which I wish would make a whole scale comeback. It’s amazing in baked goods – pancakes, biscuits, breads and crusts – the lactic acid in buttermilk reacts with leaveners such as baking powder to create the ‘lift’ that makes the inside of a good biscuit so heavenly. The acid reacts to create little bubbles which lift the dough and create a truly tender crumb. Try it as a tenderizer in marinades – lamb, pork and chicken especially take to the gorgeous bit of tang and more tender texture that a buttermilk bath can impart. Southern Fried Chicken especially relies on a soak in buttermilk.
Nutritional Information
Now of course the best place for nutritional information is the label on each brand - general information from sites such as the USDA will rely on generalities. However, remember that these are guides - if you don't have a mass spectrometer in your kitchen you aren't going to get everything exactly right. You will however, get really close, and more importantly, be able to work this information into your overal dietary picture.
Low fat buttermilk is relatively low in calories - 98 per 8 ounce serving. In addition it contains just over 8 grams of protein per serving, as well as 284 mg of calcium. That's quite a punch - 16% of the daily value of protein, and 28% of the DV for calcium. Pretty good for something that's delicious as well, huh?
The same 8 ounces will give 22% of the DV of riboflavin, 11% of potassium, and 9% of B12. The downside - you're also going to get a rather sharp sodium punch - 11% of the daily value, or 257 mg, so be careful there. In addition, much of the nutritive value in buttermilk comes from carbohydrates, so the glycemic scale should be watched carefully. The USDA states the glycemic load of a cup of buttermilk at 8.
Overall though, this is an amazing substance, and once you begin to experiement with it, you'll see how powerful a tool it can be. Don't be afraid of buttermilk - it wants to be your friend. Let it - and allow it to make you a culinary rock star.
For more information and photographs, check out the link above.
Beans and Legumes
If you grew up in the Appalachian South, as I did, it’s a given that you also grew up on Soup Beans and Cornbread – a dish so ubiquitous and beloved that it’s part of the soul of our culture. This particular dish consists of pinto beans simmered for several hours, usually with onion and some form of pork and served chow-chow or hot sauce and with loads of buttermilk cornbread to crumble into it. Variations are all over, but that’s the basis. In this regard, we join cultures from around the world in having a culturally defining dish that involves legumes. The Japanese have edamame, South America the black bean, the Middle East the beautiful chickpea, lentils from France – many cultures have developed a base dish involving this nutritional powerhouse. Archeological evidence has beans being grown in Thailand as early as 7000 BCE, and in the Americas 4000 years BCE.
Beans, according the FAO, are pulses – foods that are harvested for use as dry grains. In that case, green beans and peas are not pulses, but cranberry beans, pintos, black eyed peas, fava beans, and lentils are. The ones grown for oil, such as soybeans and peanuts – are not pulses, although they are beans. I personally don’t think the designation adds much to everyday usage – it’s rather confusing, although for agricultural purposes the distinction could be useful. For the purposes of these articles though, I’m going to use the more commonly known derivations, beans, legumes, soy, etc.
So why beans?
Because they taste great! Each variety and cultivar has it’s own distinct flavor, but think of it as a pre-primed wall. Yes, the base is already there, but the rest is up to you. Just as you add any color or texture to a wall as you wish, flavors and richness can be brought to beans. However you like! Beans are fabulous for taking up other flavors readily, so that they can be personalized and spiced up – or down – to your heart’s content. There are also tons of varieties – from delicate lentils to the sweet butter bean to the lusty blacks – there’s something for every cuisine and palate.
They are also one of the most budget friendly proteins imaginable. For an example how how incredibly cost effective they can be, check out Black Bean and Chicken Stew.
In addition the nutritional benefits of beans are unparalleled. I’ve read several articles stating that they are an acceptable substitute for meat, historically in times of famine. I think they should stand on their own, not just when you’re short on rib-eye. Beans are packed with protein – between 20-25% protein, depending on the type of bean. And I love that it’s fat free protein (although I admit I do drop a good bit of pig in my own soup beans while they cook). Beans contain twice the protein as grains, and three times the protein as rice. Not bad, huh? So don’t think of beans as something you eat if you can’t get meat of some kind. Oh no! Think of them on their glorious own – a beautiful healthy source of protein and some rocking nutritive elements!
Beans are rich in the amino acid methoionine. Grains contain very little to none of this nutrient, which is necessary survival. Grains do contain lysine, which beans lack, so the two together are pretty much a superfood when in combination. Together, beans and grains can make a complete diet. In addition, they are loaded with dietary fiber, starch, iron, potassium, thiamine, vitamin B6, vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid, selenium and molybdenum. The consumption of beans has also been tied to a significant reduction in death from coronary heart disease. So you see beans can be an integral part of a diet leading to a long and healthy life.
Bonus!
The best part? Beans are EASY! In my neck of the woods, soup beans are often one of the first (sometimes only!) dishes someone learns. Usually from a mama or granny of course. A friend of mine, a native of Mexico, told me recently the only dish he knew how to make was his own mother’s black bean soup. There really are only a few tricks and techniques, and the really, REALLY cool part, is that these tricks apply to almost all dried beans. So the variety you have may differ a little, but all the general information will be the same.
If you do manage to come across fresh beans – those that haven’t been dried, then you can treat them as you would any fresh vegetable (although technically – beans are a fruit). Most of the time however, you’ll find them dried. Now – the more recently they’ve been dried, the ‘fresher’ they are – which can be a tad confusing. Fresh dried beans take less time to soak and cook, and they therefore lose fewer of their water soluble nutrients. So when you’re buying dried beans, pick a store with a higher turnover. You’ll know you’re beans haven’t been there long and are more likely fresher. A basic selection of dried beans, pintos, red, kidney, black, lima, navy, black eyed peas and lentils – is available in almost every grocery store. For more unusual or exotic varieties, check out Amazon. They have a huge selection from multiple vendors.
Most dried beans need to be soaked before cooking (lentils are an exception – check packages) There are really two ways to do this. The first is the most traditional; simply soak your beans in cold water overnight. Just cover the beans by a couple inches, let them sit, and in the morning drain them off, rinse, and replace with fresh cooking water.
The second is usually called a quick-soak method. Frankly I rarely remember to soak beans the night before, so I usually do this. Cover them with cold water, bring to a boil, then turn it off and walk away for an hour. Drain, rinse, and then proceed with cooking.
Different bean varieties need different cooking times as well – lentils and black eyed peas are relatively quick. Large beans like cranberry and pintos need longer. The time will vary, much dependent on the ‘freshness’ of your dried beans, but in general plan on 1-4 hours of simmering time.
Most beans do produce a difficult to digest sugar, which is what can cause an issue with gas. However, there are several things that can be done to assist in this. The first is to eat a lot of beans – intestinal microbes will adjust and that solves the problem right there. The soaking methods listed above also help remove these sugars. A little vinegar can also be added to the beans once they have cooked, which helps with the ‘sugar’ issue. Other spices, such as coriander, cumin and anise can be added earlier in the cooking process and these are natural assistants as well.
One final thing to note – acids such as tomato, citrus and vinegars are an amazing compliment to beans. However, don’t add them until the end of the cooking process – when the beans are already tender. The acid will prevent the beans from becoming tender if added before then. Salt however, which many people think does the same thing, is fine. Layer in your seasonings while simmering the beans as you would any other dish, just keeping an eye on the addition of the acids
For more information, links, nutritional information and photos, check out the full article at the link above.
Beans, according the FAO, are pulses – foods that are harvested for use as dry grains. In that case, green beans and peas are not pulses, but cranberry beans, pintos, black eyed peas, fava beans, and lentils are. The ones grown for oil, such as soybeans and peanuts – are not pulses, although they are beans. I personally don’t think the designation adds much to everyday usage – it’s rather confusing, although for agricultural purposes the distinction could be useful. For the purposes of these articles though, I’m going to use the more commonly known derivations, beans, legumes, soy, etc.
So why beans?
Because they taste great! Each variety and cultivar has it’s own distinct flavor, but think of it as a pre-primed wall. Yes, the base is already there, but the rest is up to you. Just as you add any color or texture to a wall as you wish, flavors and richness can be brought to beans. However you like! Beans are fabulous for taking up other flavors readily, so that they can be personalized and spiced up – or down – to your heart’s content. There are also tons of varieties – from delicate lentils to the sweet butter bean to the lusty blacks – there’s something for every cuisine and palate.
They are also one of the most budget friendly proteins imaginable. For an example how how incredibly cost effective they can be, check out Black Bean and Chicken Stew.
In addition the nutritional benefits of beans are unparalleled. I’ve read several articles stating that they are an acceptable substitute for meat, historically in times of famine. I think they should stand on their own, not just when you’re short on rib-eye. Beans are packed with protein – between 20-25% protein, depending on the type of bean. And I love that it’s fat free protein (although I admit I do drop a good bit of pig in my own soup beans while they cook). Beans contain twice the protein as grains, and three times the protein as rice. Not bad, huh? So don’t think of beans as something you eat if you can’t get meat of some kind. Oh no! Think of them on their glorious own – a beautiful healthy source of protein and some rocking nutritive elements!
Beans are rich in the amino acid methoionine. Grains contain very little to none of this nutrient, which is necessary survival. Grains do contain lysine, which beans lack, so the two together are pretty much a superfood when in combination. Together, beans and grains can make a complete diet. In addition, they are loaded with dietary fiber, starch, iron, potassium, thiamine, vitamin B6, vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid, selenium and molybdenum. The consumption of beans has also been tied to a significant reduction in death from coronary heart disease. So you see beans can be an integral part of a diet leading to a long and healthy life.
Bonus!
The best part? Beans are EASY! In my neck of the woods, soup beans are often one of the first (sometimes only!) dishes someone learns. Usually from a mama or granny of course. A friend of mine, a native of Mexico, told me recently the only dish he knew how to make was his own mother’s black bean soup. There really are only a few tricks and techniques, and the really, REALLY cool part, is that these tricks apply to almost all dried beans. So the variety you have may differ a little, but all the general information will be the same.
If you do manage to come across fresh beans – those that haven’t been dried, then you can treat them as you would any fresh vegetable (although technically – beans are a fruit). Most of the time however, you’ll find them dried. Now – the more recently they’ve been dried, the ‘fresher’ they are – which can be a tad confusing. Fresh dried beans take less time to soak and cook, and they therefore lose fewer of their water soluble nutrients. So when you’re buying dried beans, pick a store with a higher turnover. You’ll know you’re beans haven’t been there long and are more likely fresher. A basic selection of dried beans, pintos, red, kidney, black, lima, navy, black eyed peas and lentils – is available in almost every grocery store. For more unusual or exotic varieties, check out Amazon. They have a huge selection from multiple vendors.
Most dried beans need to be soaked before cooking (lentils are an exception – check packages) There are really two ways to do this. The first is the most traditional; simply soak your beans in cold water overnight. Just cover the beans by a couple inches, let them sit, and in the morning drain them off, rinse, and replace with fresh cooking water.
The second is usually called a quick-soak method. Frankly I rarely remember to soak beans the night before, so I usually do this. Cover them with cold water, bring to a boil, then turn it off and walk away for an hour. Drain, rinse, and then proceed with cooking.
Different bean varieties need different cooking times as well – lentils and black eyed peas are relatively quick. Large beans like cranberry and pintos need longer. The time will vary, much dependent on the ‘freshness’ of your dried beans, but in general plan on 1-4 hours of simmering time.
Most beans do produce a difficult to digest sugar, which is what can cause an issue with gas. However, there are several things that can be done to assist in this. The first is to eat a lot of beans – intestinal microbes will adjust and that solves the problem right there. The soaking methods listed above also help remove these sugars. A little vinegar can also be added to the beans once they have cooked, which helps with the ‘sugar’ issue. Other spices, such as coriander, cumin and anise can be added earlier in the cooking process and these are natural assistants as well.
One final thing to note – acids such as tomato, citrus and vinegars are an amazing compliment to beans. However, don’t add them until the end of the cooking process – when the beans are already tender. The acid will prevent the beans from becoming tender if added before then. Salt however, which many people think does the same thing, is fine. Layer in your seasonings while simmering the beans as you would any other dish, just keeping an eye on the addition of the acids
For more information, links, nutritional information and photos, check out the full article at the link above.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Is your Mama Catholic, and can she make a roux?
First you make a roux...
The complete article and more information, please visit the link above!
First time I ever ran across the phrase "Is your mama Catholic and can she make a roux?" was while reading "The Divine Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood" by Rebecca Wells, a fabulous novel set in Louisiana. Now, the different parts of the South can be as disparate as night and day, and as a Tennessean from the mountains the word 'roux' was not in our everyday vocabulary. But as a Southerner I understood the critical question about mamas, and therefore realized that if roux ranked enough to be included in that question, it must be fundamental indeed.
Years later, when I began to ask myself the critical questions that led to my philosophy of technique over recipe, I realized that I did indeed know how to make a roux, and had been taught not only by own mama, but her mama as well. We just lacked the cultural link to the French culinary history that Louisiana had, and therefore didn't feel we had to discuss it. We also lacked some of the finer permutations of the roux though - what we made was nearly always a simple white or 'light' roux. This is the basic thickening method for cream sauces and gravies - most often a Bechamel. If you've ever eaten Macaroni and Cheese, Sausage Gravy and Biscuits, or tons of cream based casseroles, you've had roux.
The elevation of a roux though comes when the French and Cajuns get hold of it. The word 'roux' means 'red' in French, and it refers to the richer colors a roux acquires as it cooks. We'll talk about that in a minute.
The purpose of a roux is to thicken sauces, stews and soups. Beyond that though, a darker roux will impart an unmistakable nutty flavor to the dish in which it is used. A roux is simply flour and fat cooked together to the desired color. Cooking them together before using allows the starch in the flour to absorb moisture, which in turn allows the flour to thicken a sauce or soup without lumps. The more liquid the flour particles have absorbed at the beginning, the less likely they will be to clump together later. This is a nifty means by which to make sure your sauces and stews are silky and beautifully thickened, with nary a lump or bump in sight.This is the basic method for making most sauces and of course - the bechamel.
However, if you've ever received the unparalleled delight that is a basic Cajun gumbo, you'll understand why a roux is also much more than that. If you cook a roux longer than strictly necessary for thickening, the flour is therefore toasted, and the roux takes on an incomparable nutty flavor. It also picks up more and more color, which is where the names of the different roux come from.
All righty - there's the intro. Let's move on...
What IS a roux, anyway?
Roux is simply fat and flour. All roux is fat and flour. The differences between roux (rouxis also the plural - there isn't rouxs or rouxes) come in what kind of fat and how long it is cooked. Most roux uses butter and flour in equal proportion, 1/2 stick (or 1/4 cup) of butter and a 1/4 cup of flour. Or a cup of butter and a cup of flour. A 1:1 ratio is the standard for roux, period. Note I said standard - I personally like most things a little thicker than standard, so I use about another 25% more flour than fat than the standard. (See - once you know the method you don't need to follow all the rules!)
Most traditionally, roux is made with butter, especially clarified butter. However, you can use just about any fat you wish. I've used bacon fat in Bacon Pot Pie, oils in Gumbos and Etouffee, and schmaltz in Chicken and Dumplings. They're all delicious. Your choice is yours - although you should be led by two factors. What you will be using the roux for, and how long you'll be cooking the roux. The longer your roux cooks, the more likely it will be to burn. So you'll want to choose judiciously there. A higher smoke point - with vegetable oils vs. butter or bacon grease might be a better choice, and is more traditional with the Cajun classics. However, keep in mind that the true art of roux is in stirring, so as long as your willing to stir and baby it, you can use whatever you like. Your roux is not only a means by which to thicken - it's also a flavoring agent if you want it to be (in darker roux). And the fat you choose is a large part of this.
All the colors of Roux...
I've read about forty two bajillion cookbooks, essays and articles, especially on method. Many will try to give you a distinct number of roux - some say three, some say five, some simply list colors. The truth is, there are as many types of roux as there are color variations between white and black. However, there are some basic 'grades' and each one has it's own uses and benefits. So I'll give you the high points on the color scale. To make the darker roux, keep stirring. You'll progress through each of the lighter colors on your way to the final one.
White Roux
White roux is the first thing you'll get on the scale. This is often used in simple cream gravy or sauce, and can be used to make the Bechamel that is used to bind other dishes. A white roux is achieved when the flour has cooked enough to be rid of the 'floury' taste. This roux is the most powerful of thickeners.
Blond Roux
Considered a 'medium' roux, many Creole dishes use a blond roux as a base. Creole cuisine is somewhat more 'refined' than Cajun; think of it as the elegant city version of Cajun's rustic punch.
Peanut Butter Roux
Also thought of as a 'medium' roux, Classic Cajun cuisine will sometimes use a blond roux, but many of the distinctive flavors of Cajun dishes come from the incredible nutty, smokey flavors found in the roux - which often is not lighter than a peanut butter roux. Peanut butter roux simply looks like peanut butter - when the color is the same, this one is done.
Chocolate Roux, Dark Chocolate Roux
Keep stirring a medium roux over low heat, and the color will continue to deepen, as will the flavors. While roux that are 'dark' - such as the chocolate and brick roux, have more distinct flavors, it's not always what you are looking to achieve. More delicate flavors can't really benefit from a dark roux. However, if you're after a knock-your-socks-off Gumbo or German Brown Sauce, you'll start with these. Imagine all the colors of chocolate, from milk chocolate to dark, and you'll understand the similar variations in color of roux. Just remember the darker the color, the more complex and intense the flavor.
Brick Roux
The richest, most distinct flavoring agent, a brick roux has lost much of the thickening power it started with. What is has traded for is FLAVOR. There is nothing like it, and when someone ask 'can you make a roux', I personally feel that if you haven't mastered this one, the answer is NO. The good news are that it's not that hard, if you follow the rules, the first of which is not to leave it! Brick roux is one small step from burnt roux, and if you burn it, start over. There's no way to salvage it. The color of a brick roux is exactly that - it obtains a distinct reddish tone, and the fragrance is both nutty and smoky.
Yeah, yeah - But how do I MAKE a roux?
All you do is heat the fat, sprinkle in the flour, and stir. The traditional tried and true sworn-by-method-of Southern-cooks is to use a cast iron skillet and a wooden spoon. That's it. The whole method. Now - the trick is to stir - seriously. Don't walk off. This is not the time to call your Mama. Don't get yourself a cold drink. Within just a few minutes, as soon as the mixture is incorporated in fact, you'll have a white roux - what's most often used in a casserole.
Now while cast iron is the classic, I have to confess I've used a steel skillet or porcelain pot and I have remained a member of polite society. More or less.
Remember as well that while a classic ratio is 1:1, you can tailor this based on your preferences. Make a roux a couple times the standard way, using butter or oil and an equivalent amount of flour, then begin to tweak it as you like. Begin with a medium heat, then remember the main objective. If you want a darker roux, use slightly lower heat to accommodate smoke points. If you want butter flavor but a chocolate roux, use half vegetable oil. Or all oil - which means you can use higher temps and have a shorter cook time.
It's all up to you - think about what you want in your final product. Personally, for a darker roux, I'm happy with half butter or bacon fat and half oil, with a slightly longer cooking time. The flavor is unbelievable. Be prepared to spend at least a half hour on a chocolate roux - up to an hour depending on the temperature you're using.
The good news is that roux can be made ahead - and frozen or refrigerated for up to a couple months. If it lasts that long. Mine never does. Roux in the fridge calls like a siren - "gumbo..." it says. "Etouffee... can you taste it?". You can put it directly into whatever you're making. Sweet, huh?
The number one mistake people make is to not stir. I can't emphasize this point enough. I mean it. If you stop, and then see black specks, you're toast. You've burned your roux, and there's no redemption. Start over.
That's it - you're ready. Don't be afraid of roux. Allow yourself a couple times to experiment and screw it up - although if you keep the heat down and don't stop stirring, you'll be fine. Be ready to rock some Gumbo (can you tell I love that stuff), and prepare to show yourself off as a Bombshell. You'll have earned it.
The complete article and more information, please visit the link above!
First time I ever ran across the phrase "Is your mama Catholic and can she make a roux?" was while reading "The Divine Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood" by Rebecca Wells, a fabulous novel set in Louisiana. Now, the different parts of the South can be as disparate as night and day, and as a Tennessean from the mountains the word 'roux' was not in our everyday vocabulary. But as a Southerner I understood the critical question about mamas, and therefore realized that if roux ranked enough to be included in that question, it must be fundamental indeed.
Years later, when I began to ask myself the critical questions that led to my philosophy of technique over recipe, I realized that I did indeed know how to make a roux, and had been taught not only by own mama, but her mama as well. We just lacked the cultural link to the French culinary history that Louisiana had, and therefore didn't feel we had to discuss it. We also lacked some of the finer permutations of the roux though - what we made was nearly always a simple white or 'light' roux. This is the basic thickening method for cream sauces and gravies - most often a Bechamel. If you've ever eaten Macaroni and Cheese, Sausage Gravy and Biscuits, or tons of cream based casseroles, you've had roux.
The elevation of a roux though comes when the French and Cajuns get hold of it. The word 'roux' means 'red' in French, and it refers to the richer colors a roux acquires as it cooks. We'll talk about that in a minute.
The purpose of a roux is to thicken sauces, stews and soups. Beyond that though, a darker roux will impart an unmistakable nutty flavor to the dish in which it is used. A roux is simply flour and fat cooked together to the desired color. Cooking them together before using allows the starch in the flour to absorb moisture, which in turn allows the flour to thicken a sauce or soup without lumps. The more liquid the flour particles have absorbed at the beginning, the less likely they will be to clump together later. This is a nifty means by which to make sure your sauces and stews are silky and beautifully thickened, with nary a lump or bump in sight.This is the basic method for making most sauces and of course - the bechamel.
However, if you've ever received the unparalleled delight that is a basic Cajun gumbo, you'll understand why a roux is also much more than that. If you cook a roux longer than strictly necessary for thickening, the flour is therefore toasted, and the roux takes on an incomparable nutty flavor. It also picks up more and more color, which is where the names of the different roux come from.
All righty - there's the intro. Let's move on...
What IS a roux, anyway?
Roux is simply fat and flour. All roux is fat and flour. The differences between roux (rouxis also the plural - there isn't rouxs or rouxes) come in what kind of fat and how long it is cooked. Most roux uses butter and flour in equal proportion, 1/2 stick (or 1/4 cup) of butter and a 1/4 cup of flour. Or a cup of butter and a cup of flour. A 1:1 ratio is the standard for roux, period. Note I said standard - I personally like most things a little thicker than standard, so I use about another 25% more flour than fat than the standard. (See - once you know the method you don't need to follow all the rules!)
Most traditionally, roux is made with butter, especially clarified butter. However, you can use just about any fat you wish. I've used bacon fat in Bacon Pot Pie, oils in Gumbos and Etouffee, and schmaltz in Chicken and Dumplings. They're all delicious. Your choice is yours - although you should be led by two factors. What you will be using the roux for, and how long you'll be cooking the roux. The longer your roux cooks, the more likely it will be to burn. So you'll want to choose judiciously there. A higher smoke point - with vegetable oils vs. butter or bacon grease might be a better choice, and is more traditional with the Cajun classics. However, keep in mind that the true art of roux is in stirring, so as long as your willing to stir and baby it, you can use whatever you like. Your roux is not only a means by which to thicken - it's also a flavoring agent if you want it to be (in darker roux). And the fat you choose is a large part of this.
All the colors of Roux...
I've read about forty two bajillion cookbooks, essays and articles, especially on method. Many will try to give you a distinct number of roux - some say three, some say five, some simply list colors. The truth is, there are as many types of roux as there are color variations between white and black. However, there are some basic 'grades' and each one has it's own uses and benefits. So I'll give you the high points on the color scale. To make the darker roux, keep stirring. You'll progress through each of the lighter colors on your way to the final one.
White Roux
White roux is the first thing you'll get on the scale. This is often used in simple cream gravy or sauce, and can be used to make the Bechamel that is used to bind other dishes. A white roux is achieved when the flour has cooked enough to be rid of the 'floury' taste. This roux is the most powerful of thickeners.
Blond Roux
Considered a 'medium' roux, many Creole dishes use a blond roux as a base. Creole cuisine is somewhat more 'refined' than Cajun; think of it as the elegant city version of Cajun's rustic punch.
Peanut Butter Roux
Also thought of as a 'medium' roux, Classic Cajun cuisine will sometimes use a blond roux, but many of the distinctive flavors of Cajun dishes come from the incredible nutty, smokey flavors found in the roux - which often is not lighter than a peanut butter roux. Peanut butter roux simply looks like peanut butter - when the color is the same, this one is done.
Chocolate Roux, Dark Chocolate Roux
Keep stirring a medium roux over low heat, and the color will continue to deepen, as will the flavors. While roux that are 'dark' - such as the chocolate and brick roux, have more distinct flavors, it's not always what you are looking to achieve. More delicate flavors can't really benefit from a dark roux. However, if you're after a knock-your-socks-off Gumbo or German Brown Sauce, you'll start with these. Imagine all the colors of chocolate, from milk chocolate to dark, and you'll understand the similar variations in color of roux. Just remember the darker the color, the more complex and intense the flavor.
Brick Roux
The richest, most distinct flavoring agent, a brick roux has lost much of the thickening power it started with. What is has traded for is FLAVOR. There is nothing like it, and when someone ask 'can you make a roux', I personally feel that if you haven't mastered this one, the answer is NO. The good news are that it's not that hard, if you follow the rules, the first of which is not to leave it! Brick roux is one small step from burnt roux, and if you burn it, start over. There's no way to salvage it. The color of a brick roux is exactly that - it obtains a distinct reddish tone, and the fragrance is both nutty and smoky.
Yeah, yeah - But how do I MAKE a roux?
All you do is heat the fat, sprinkle in the flour, and stir. The traditional tried and true sworn-by-method-of Southern-cooks is to use a cast iron skillet and a wooden spoon. That's it. The whole method. Now - the trick is to stir - seriously. Don't walk off. This is not the time to call your Mama. Don't get yourself a cold drink. Within just a few minutes, as soon as the mixture is incorporated in fact, you'll have a white roux - what's most often used in a casserole.
Now while cast iron is the classic, I have to confess I've used a steel skillet or porcelain pot and I have remained a member of polite society. More or less.
Remember as well that while a classic ratio is 1:1, you can tailor this based on your preferences. Make a roux a couple times the standard way, using butter or oil and an equivalent amount of flour, then begin to tweak it as you like. Begin with a medium heat, then remember the main objective. If you want a darker roux, use slightly lower heat to accommodate smoke points. If you want butter flavor but a chocolate roux, use half vegetable oil. Or all oil - which means you can use higher temps and have a shorter cook time.
It's all up to you - think about what you want in your final product. Personally, for a darker roux, I'm happy with half butter or bacon fat and half oil, with a slightly longer cooking time. The flavor is unbelievable. Be prepared to spend at least a half hour on a chocolate roux - up to an hour depending on the temperature you're using.
The good news is that roux can be made ahead - and frozen or refrigerated for up to a couple months. If it lasts that long. Mine never does. Roux in the fridge calls like a siren - "gumbo..." it says. "Etouffee... can you taste it?". You can put it directly into whatever you're making. Sweet, huh?
The number one mistake people make is to not stir. I can't emphasize this point enough. I mean it. If you stop, and then see black specks, you're toast. You've burned your roux, and there's no redemption. Start over.
That's it - you're ready. Don't be afraid of roux. Allow yourself a couple times to experiment and screw it up - although if you keep the heat down and don't stop stirring, you'll be fine. Be ready to rock some Gumbo (can you tell I love that stuff), and prepare to show yourself off as a Bombshell. You'll have earned it.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Blackened Catfish - or Chicken or Shrimp or Anything!
Most of the time you’ll see the terms ‘blackened’ in regard to fish or poultry, and sometimes meats. It is credited with being an old Cajun cooking technique, but the fact is it was created in the early 1980’s by New Orleans Master Chef Paul Prudhomme at his restaurant, K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen. This was located in the French Quarter, and was co-owned by Chef Paul and his late wife Kay.
Blackening was immediately recognized as something special, and attained huge and nearly instant popularity. The dish which was served at K-Paul’s was Blackened Redfish. It was so popular it was cited as the reason Gulf populations of this sports fish were quickly declining, although the numbers of redfish in the Gulf had been dropping since the 1970’s.
Blackening is meant to be a quick cooking method. In this technique, a peppery crust is developed through the liberal use of butter and high heat, in combination with a spicy rub on a relatively thin, uniform piece of meat or fish. It can be done either with a grill, or a well seasoned cast iron pan. Note that I said the liberal use of butter – despite popular opinion, this is not a means by which to achieve a svelte figure (take a look at the inventor).
Although blackening something is not how to start a diet, it is extremely easy, and the results are out of this world. One bite and it’s easy to see how Chef Prudhomme achieved his fame. Or infamy – depending on how much you like spicy food.
For the complete recipe breakdown, and more information on the technique, click the link at the top of this article!
Monday, May 17, 2010
Tuna Casserole - Comfort Food and Budget Bombshell
For the price breakdown on this dish, click the link above!
Not long ago a friend of mine told me he was eating “tuna, peas and mac and cheese”. Oh, ‘tuna casserole?’ I asked. “No – just tuna, peas and mac and cheese”. EWWW! When I told him I could make it the right way, he said “yeah, but you’d use only the best ingredients, and that blows the budget”. He explained that it was a dish that came out of the early years of their marriage, when the grocery money had to stretch to cover the very most. He also admitted that his awesome wife “wasn’t real fond of it”.
WHAT?!?
Now wait a minute. This happens to hit something that is at the very core of my culinary philosophy. I am a single mom with four children. I KNOW what it means to make a dollar stretch until squeaks. Sure I skip all the packaged stuff. I take time to make things from scratch. I don’t ever buy convenience foods. And I do it on purpose. Homemade and scratch means that not only do things taste better, but they cost less. There are a very few exceptions to this, but only a very few.
This is why I love to preach method and technique over recipes. Knowing the methods sets you free – not just in the kitchen, but also with your grocery budget. Once you understand your ingredients and how to make each one work, you’ll be free to take advantage of every sale you come across. You can adapt what you know how to do to what is fresh and inexpensive. Sure it takes time and effort. BUT…
How much extra time is spent at work to cover the increased cost of packaged, convenience or restaurant foods? I don’t think an extra couple hours of planning or cooking is a very high price to pay at all when you consider the benefits. Fresh food, higher quality, increased health and nutrition, and complete control of our dietary intake. That’s a given right there.
So I took a twofold challenge with Tuna Casserole. I wanted to do several things. I wanted to show the traditional comfort food that few of us admit to loving. But we do. I wanted to show that nearly the same ingredients my friend used could be used in a ‘scratch’ version – so that the flavors rocked, and it was something his poor wife might actually want to eat – not to mention the kids. This is the version my mother, grandmother and HER mother made - so this one is the beloved standard. My daughter cooked with me, so it's proven for five generations. Not bad there. And I also wanted to demonstrate that it can be done for nearly the same cost as the hideous concoction he described.
I did a price breakdown for this dish. If I didn’t have a grocery receipt for one of the items I used, I pulled the price from a national warehouse store website. I usually buy generic items, so the actual cost of the name brands from the warehouse store actually brought the price up some. If I find the actual price I pay at my local discount supermarket, I’ll adjust the price accordingly. (See Box.)
Now if your budget isn't quite so restricted, feel free to adjust or increase any of the ingredients you want. If you prefer all white tuna, or more cheese, or want to add sour cream or cream cheese to the bechamel, go ahead. A touch of terragon is great, as is thyme, or a little dried oregano - all serve to just make it better. Use Parmesan cheese, or a white cheddar - soon I'll be posting an 'upgrade' version of this dish. So I do it myself from time to time. But the one I instruct here is the all time fabulous comfort food classic. Give it a shot!
The Recipe!
You'll need:
1/2 pound egg noodles
1 cup petite frozen peas
1 small yellow onion, diced - about 1 cup
4 oz. button mushrooms, diced
1 5 oz can light tuna, packed in water, drained very well
1/4 cup butter, divided
2 oz heavy cream (about three tablespoons or so)
1/2 sleeve Ritz crackers, crushed
4 oz. sharp Chedder cheese, grated
1.Cook egg noodles in salted boiling water according to package directions, about 6-7 minutes. Preheat oven to 350F.
2.Meanwhile, melt half the butter in a very large skillet over medium heat. Saute onion and mushrooms for about five minutes, or until fragrant and onion is becoming transluscent.
3.Stir in cream and drop heat to low. Stir in drained tuna, breaking up an large pieces, and toss in peas. Stir well to combine. If the sauce seems a little tight, add just a little pasta water, 1/4 cup at a time, until you like the consistency. Add salt and pepper, tasting to adjust for seasoning.
4.Drain noodles, and add to skillet. Toss well to combine. Transfer mixture to a 7x11 casserole dish. Top with shredded cheese.
5.Melt remaining butter, and stir into crush crackers. Spread cracker mixture evenly over top of cheese.
6.Back at 350F for 25-30 minutes, or until bubbly, and cheese is melted. That's it! Go eat!
WHAT?!?
Now wait a minute. This happens to hit something that is at the very core of my culinary philosophy. I am a single mom with four children. I KNOW what it means to make a dollar stretch until squeaks. Sure I skip all the packaged stuff. I take time to make things from scratch. I don’t ever buy convenience foods. And I do it on purpose. Homemade and scratch means that not only do things taste better, but they cost less. There are a very few exceptions to this, but only a very few.
This is why I love to preach method and technique over recipes. Knowing the methods sets you free – not just in the kitchen, but also with your grocery budget. Once you understand your ingredients and how to make each one work, you’ll be free to take advantage of every sale you come across. You can adapt what you know how to do to what is fresh and inexpensive. Sure it takes time and effort. BUT…
How much extra time is spent at work to cover the increased cost of packaged, convenience or restaurant foods? I don’t think an extra couple hours of planning or cooking is a very high price to pay at all when you consider the benefits. Fresh food, higher quality, increased health and nutrition, and complete control of our dietary intake. That’s a given right there.
So I took a twofold challenge with Tuna Casserole. I wanted to do several things. I wanted to show the traditional comfort food that few of us admit to loving. But we do. I wanted to show that nearly the same ingredients my friend used could be used in a ‘scratch’ version – so that the flavors rocked, and it was something his poor wife might actually want to eat – not to mention the kids. This is the version my mother, grandmother and HER mother made - so this one is the beloved standard. My daughter cooked with me, so it's proven for five generations. Not bad there. And I also wanted to demonstrate that it can be done for nearly the same cost as the hideous concoction he described.
I did a price breakdown for this dish. If I didn’t have a grocery receipt for one of the items I used, I pulled the price from a national warehouse store website. I usually buy generic items, so the actual cost of the name brands from the warehouse store actually brought the price up some. If I find the actual price I pay at my local discount supermarket, I’ll adjust the price accordingly. (See Box.)
Now if your budget isn't quite so restricted, feel free to adjust or increase any of the ingredients you want. If you prefer all white tuna, or more cheese, or want to add sour cream or cream cheese to the bechamel, go ahead. A touch of terragon is great, as is thyme, or a little dried oregano - all serve to just make it better. Use Parmesan cheese, or a white cheddar - soon I'll be posting an 'upgrade' version of this dish. So I do it myself from time to time. But the one I instruct here is the all time fabulous comfort food classic. Give it a shot!
The Recipe!
You'll need:
1/2 pound egg noodles
1 cup petite frozen peas
1 small yellow onion, diced - about 1 cup
4 oz. button mushrooms, diced
1 5 oz can light tuna, packed in water, drained very well
1/4 cup butter, divided
2 oz heavy cream (about three tablespoons or so)
1/2 sleeve Ritz crackers, crushed
4 oz. sharp Chedder cheese, grated
1.Cook egg noodles in salted boiling water according to package directions, about 6-7 minutes. Preheat oven to 350F.
2.Meanwhile, melt half the butter in a very large skillet over medium heat. Saute onion and mushrooms for about five minutes, or until fragrant and onion is becoming transluscent.
3.Stir in cream and drop heat to low. Stir in drained tuna, breaking up an large pieces, and toss in peas. Stir well to combine. If the sauce seems a little tight, add just a little pasta water, 1/4 cup at a time, until you like the consistency. Add salt and pepper, tasting to adjust for seasoning.
4.Drain noodles, and add to skillet. Toss well to combine. Transfer mixture to a 7x11 casserole dish. Top with shredded cheese.
5.Melt remaining butter, and stir into crush crackers. Spread cracker mixture evenly over top of cheese.
6.Back at 350F for 25-30 minutes, or until bubbly, and cheese is melted. That's it! Go eat!
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